
Hey Sami. Buzzing and weak cooling usually point to airflow or defrost issues, not just dirty coils. Do a quick reset test before buying parts. Pull the fridge out, make sure there is a couple inches of space behind it, set temps to mid, and listen to where the buzz comes from. The condenser fan is behind the lower back panel near the compressor and should spin freely and run when the compressor runs. Inside the freezer, look for a sheet of frost on the back wall which means the evaporator is iced over and airflow to the fridge is blocked.
Unplug the fridge and prop the doors open to fully defrost for 12 to 24 hours with towels down. If it cools normally again for a few days then warms up, the defrost system is the culprit. If your fridge is Frigidaire, Electrolux, or Kenmore, the Defrost thermostat is a common fix because when that thermostat fails the coil ices up and the fan can buzz against ice. It is a two pack and is made to fit those brands, and it simply clips to the evaporator with two wires.
If the manual defrost does not help or you have another brand, check the compressor start relay next. Unplug the fridge, pull the little plug on the side of the compressor, and if the relay rattles when shaken or looks burnt, replace it. Also make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer spins quietly and freely once defrosted. Level the fridge so it does not vibrate, keep food from blocking the rear vents, and give the condenser fan a thorough clean so it can move air. These steps usually get an older fridge stable again without a big spend.
Sami one quick way to pinpoint the buzz is to open the freezer and hold the door switch in; if the noise changes or stops, the evaporator fan is hitting ice, which points to a defrost or blocked drain issue. After the 12–24 hour defrost, pour a cup of hot water down the freezer drain hole to clear it so the ice doesn’t come right back. If instead you hear a repeated buzz for a few seconds followed by a click and then a minute of silence, that’s the compressor trying and failing to start, and a new start relay/overload is the next cheap part to try.