How do I inflate a SUP paddle board with an electric pump?

With a Halkey Roberts valve, push the center pin and twist so it pops up, which is the closed position. Pick the adapter that bayonets into the valve and locks with a quarter turn, make sure the O ring is in place, then attach the hose. A dual stage electric pump will start in high volume and switch to high pressure on its own once back pressure builds. If yours has separate ports or modes, use high volume first to get the board shaped, then switch to high pressure to finish.

For a 10 foot 6 all round board, most feel right at about 12 to 15 PSI. Check the max rating printed near the valve and do not exceed it. Heavier riders or choppier water usually prefer the upper end. Expect a small pressure drop after the board cools in the water, so you can top up if needed. If you must switch stages manually, change from high volume to high pressure when the board looks fully formed and feels firm by hand, roughly 4 to 6 PSI.

To avoid losing air when disconnecting, confirm the valve is in the closed up position before you start. At your target pressure, hold the hose straight, press in slightly to unload the tabs, twist off in one smooth motion, and cap the valve right away. A brief hiss is normal, anything more means the adapter was not fully seated or the O ring is missing or dry, a little water on the O ring helps it seal. Keep sand out of the valve, and avoid leaving the board pumping or fully inflated in direct sun because heat can spike pressure.

YEP, been there.

Quick technical notes for best results which, yeah set the valve to closed with the pin up before attaching anything. Seat the locking adapter with a firm quarter turn and support the hose so it is not tugging while the pump vibrates.

Dual stage pumps usually switch on their own. If yours needs a choice, run high volume until the hull is full and the deck feels rigid, roughly mid single digits on the gauge, then go high pressure to finish. For a 10 foot 6 board, 12 to 15 PSI gives good stiffness. Stay under the printed maximum. I go near the top of that range if the water is cold since pressure sags after launch.

To avoid losing air, keep the valve closed, straighten the hose, press inward a hair to unload the tabs, twist off smoothly, and cap right away. A brief puff is fine. Big rush means the O ring is missing or dry or the adapter never fully locked. Works great.

I do this on a beach with sand blowing everywhere, so step one for me is always to make sure the valve pin is up and clean. I dry fit the bayonet adapter first to feel that quarter turn lock and confirm the O ring is snug, then I attach the hose to the adapter and only then power the pump. Keeps surprises down.

Let the pump run on high volume until the board is fully shaped and springy when you press the rails. On my gauge that is usually somewhere around 4 to 6 PSI. Then switch to high pressure and let it creep up to your target. For a 10 six all around board 12 to 15 PSI is the sweet spot. I stop closer to 14 or 15 when carrying a kid or a cooler, and lower if I am just messing around near shore. Never over the rating printed by the valve.

When you are done, stand over the connection, keep the hose as straight as you can, and twist the adapter off in one quick move. You will hear a tiny hiss. If you get more than that, the adapter was not fully locked or the O ring is dry. A quick dip of the gasket in water before you start helps. One more thing. Do not press the pin while removing the hose or you will vent the board.

Close the valve so the center pin is up, bayonet the adapter a quarter turn with the O-ring seated, then pump high volume first and switch to high pressure until the board feels firm around 12 to 15 PSI for a 10'6 board. To disconnect with minimal loss, keep the pin up, twist off in one smooth move, cap fast, and if you hear more than a short hiss reseat the adapter and check the O-ring.