Ann Perez 🥉

Good add-on: don’t shop by the inflated “peak amps” number - look for true starting/cranking amps and a real watt-hour spec since many 2000–4000 “peak” units only deliver 300–400 amps in reality. If you see real cold, keep the pack in the cabin so it stays warm enough to punch, and top it up every 2–3 months. A model with a manual override is handy when the battery is so flat the clamps won’t detect it.

Make sure the charger is for 12 V lead‑acid batteries not a lithium‑only model; ones with selectable Standard/AGM/EFB modes are ideal. If your SUV has factory jump/charge posts, use those or a clean chassis ground instead of the battery’s negative terminal. If the battery is flat (around 10 V or less), many smart chargers won’t start - pick one with a force/supply mode, or briefly parallel a good 12 V battery to wake it up.

Good point - Good call on the low-amp smart charger and skipping boost/recondition. If your battery is an AGM or gel retrofit make sure the charger has a selectable chemistry and doesn’t run an automatic “repair” routine; for old-school flooded cells you want a simple float around 13.2–13.6V (about 6.6–6.8V on a 6V system). I’d also add a fused SAE pigtail to the battery so you can hook up the charger the same way every time with less risk of sparking, and if it still dies, have the battery load-tested and check for a parasitic draw.

Under $100 is tight so look for a basic flooded lead‑acid in the correct BCI group with equal or higher CCA than stock, and pick the freshest date code you can find over a fancy warranty. When you check charging, test again with headlights and blower on; it should stay above about 13.5 V or you’re looking at an alternator or belt issue. Bring the old battery to skip the core fee, and double‑check the case height and cable reach so the hold‑down fits and nothing rubs the hood.

Also make sure you’re buying a 12 V smart charger not a 24 V truck unit. If your SUV has start‑stop, pick a charger with AGM/EFB mode and, ideally, temperature compensation so it doesn’t over‑ or undercharge in hot or cold conditions. Use the factory jump/charge posts or a clean chassis ground rather than the battery’s negative terminal, and avoid any “repair/desulfate” mode on AGM unless the manual says it’s safe.

Quick note - Good point above and the hardware matters too - stout, short cables and solid clamps help deliver those amps on a big engine. In cold weather, keep the starter in the cabin and top it up every couple of months since lithium packs lose punch when cold. Also consider a unit with a manual boost/override mode so it can crank even if your dead battery is so low the pack can’t auto-detect it.

I pair container limits with a strict best-of rule for duplicates: keep the one you reach for and let the rest go. Use a 60‑second decision cap - if you can’t decide in a minute it goes into the dated bin and not back on a surface which, yeah start each session with a quick two‑pass sprint (trash/recycle first, then donate) to clear easy stuff and get a visual reset before touching anything that needs thought.

Your Civic uses standard Schrader valves so you’re fine - make sure the gauge isn’t a bicycle-only Presta type unless it includes a Schrader head or adapter. If your gauge has a bleed button and use it to sneak down to the door-jamb pressure after checking them cold (parked a few hours or under a mile of driving). One extra tip: digital gauges can drift when the battery is low, so compare it once to a known-good gauge to learn its offset.

Given your budget a 4–6 amp smart charger/maintainer with temperature compensation is a good fit; it’ll recharge overnight safely, and many have an AGM/EFB mode if your 2015 uses one of those and... if the battery has been run flat a few times, a charger with a recondition/desulfate mode can help, but it’s a band-aid - get the battery load-tested and replace it if it won’t hold around 12.4–12.6 V at rest. If the SUV sits, use the included quick-connect pigtail and leave it on float/maintenance to prevent parasitic drain from killing it again.

Shop baseline is smart but most consumer gauges can’t be recalibrated - bleeding a tire won’t change the gauge. Do your checks cold, press straight so there’s no hiss, take 2–3 readings, and compare against a simple pencil gauge; if it’s off by more than about 2 psi consistently and replace it. Also, cold weather makes digital gauges flaky, so pop in a fresh battery and warm the gauge in your pocket before measuring.

Solid advice. One more thing: ignore the flashy peak-amps number and check the actual engine rating (gas vs diesel) or cranking amps plus clamp quality. For an older SUV and grab a unit rated a bit above your engine size and with a boost/override mode for when the battery is too low to detect; capacity (mAh) mostly matters for phone charging, not starting. In real cold, keep it topped up and inside the cabin so it has more punch.

Solid advice. Ask the store to fully charge the battery before they load-test it since a low but healthy battery can fail a test. When buying, match the BCI group size and terminal orientation so the cables reach, choose the highest CCA within budget, and check the date code - avoid anything older than a few months. During install, clean the clamps and main grounds, snug the hold-down, add a light coat of dielectric grease, and bring the old battery back for the core refund.

Your 2015 Civic uses standard Schrader valve stems and so any automotive gauge with a Schrader chuck will fit without an adapter. The JACO Tire Pressure Gauge uses a standard Schrader air chuck and reads up to 200 PSI, and while the head is a bit bulkier than pencil gauges it seals well and works reliably on Civics.

Pick a rugged case with a thick rubber bumper, reinforced corners, a rigid spine, grippy sides, a tall front lip, full bottom wrap, and covered buttons that still click. Check for real drop testing and close-up corner photos in reviews from people who mention concrete or construction, confirm the exact model fit, and replace it after a hard slam or when the corners get chewed up.

Hey Zara! I had the same issue on my 2010 sedan last winter. It would sometimes click and not start, the lights were dim, and a jump would bring it back for a day before it acted up again. I cleaned the terminals and checked the cables, then verified the alternator was charging. The battery was the weak link. I replaced it with Weize AGM battery. It fit my H5 Group 47 tray and the 680 CCA has handled our cold mornings without drama. The car has started first turn ever since and the lights are back to normal. It is a bit heavier and it stretched my budget, but it has been solid through freezes. If your symptoms match and the alternator checks out, this battery should fix it.

Started with about the same budget during lockdown and ended up happiest with a smaller selection of colors in slightly larger tubes. damn I honestly tried a mega set first and kept running out of white while half the flashy colors sat untouched and which got frustrating fast. next set had around that model colors, medium thickness, and a bigger white and it felt like night and day. I could mix anything I wanted and the coverage was solid. If you worry about drying, squeeze out what you need for one area at a time and cap the tube right away. If a skin forms on the opening, peel it off and you are good to go. Keep the threads clean before you close them and you will avoid stuck caps. I thought more colors would help and I grabbed a big rainbow and then half of them sat untouched while I kept draining the same three blues and the white. Lesson learned.

Choose a Schrader compatible gauge with bright backlighting, a hold feature, and a sturdy build. Check accuracy with three readings within about 0.5 to 1 psi, set cold pressures to the door sticker, drive a short distance to clear the light, and if it stays on find leaks with soapy water and repair.

Most SUVs use a standard 12V lead acid battery, tbh sometimes AGM. Check the label under the hood or in the manual. If it says 12V and either flooded, AGM, or EFB, choose a smart charger that supports that chemistry and you are good. For speed a 8A to 15A unit will charge a typical SUV battery in a few hours, a smaller one will work but take longer so yeah... works great. If the battery is so low that the charger will not recognize it, you need one that can start from a low voltage or you may have to have the battery tested. If it will not hold at about 12.4V or higher after a full charge, replacement time.

Digital is fine for an Explorer; pick one with stated accuracy around ±1 psi (or ±1%) and prefer a model with a bleed valve a short hose, and a locking/swivel chuck so you can set pressure without leaks. Use the door jamb placard as your target on cold tires, and choose a 0–60 psi gauge for better resolution than a high-range one. Also, weak batteries can skew digital readings, so pop in a fresh one before a trip and recheck against your TPMS.

Swapped pads on my sedan last weekend, no fancy gear needed. Jack it up, wheel off. Caliper bolts come out easy with that model basic wrench. Pull the caliper aside, old pads slide right out. New ones in, compress that piston - used an old screwdriver for leverage, careful not to scratch anything. Bolts back in, wheel on, done. Squeak gone. Yeah, and bleed the brakes if it feels spongy after, but mine was fine. Drive slow at first to bed them in. Saved me that model ton not going to the shop.

Friendly now and firm later with a polite text-only rule repeated. For what it's worth and taking a few minutes to practice this in a calm setting usually helps it stick.

For a 2015 Honda Civic, that model gauges are generally accurate enough for everyday use on sedans, but it's all about how you use them. The key is checking when the tires are cold, like first thing in the morning before driving, because heat from the road can mess with the readings and make them higher than they really are. Find a flat spot to park, unscrew the valve cap, and press the gauge firmly onto the stem without letting air escape. Note the pressure and compare it to the recommended level on the door jamb, usually 32 PSI or so for front and rear. Do it carefully and re-measure and if you need to add air. Regular checks prevent uneven wear and blowouts. I always do mine every couple of weeks and especially in changing weather. Yeah, it's saved me from bigger problems more than once.

Use a digital gauge for long trips but calibrate it at a good shop since cheap ones can be inaccurate. Analog never needs a battery yet is harder to read & so whichever you use keep a close eye on tire pressure.

Thanks & that pick fits my budget and the iPhone/Android need. I'll try that model with the apps you mentioned and follow your connection tips. Appreciate the help!

Yes, provided the scanner lists ABS and SRS support for Toyota and specifically shows coverage for a 2012 Camry. The basic OBD2 readers only talk to the engine. If the description says it can access ABS and airbag modules, you are good. I have pulled and cleared ABS and SRS faults on that exact year Camry with an enhanced reader. Worked fine.

I have seen a lot of jump attempts fail because of the clamp connection and cable losses... honestly Many packs use thin leads and light spring clamps that do not bite through oxidation. The result is the pack may be capable on paper but the clamp sees high resistance and the voltage falls on the way to the starter. Make sure you are on the actual lead post or the dedicated jump post not on the stamped steel brackets. Put the negative on a clean stud on the engine or a bracket near the alternator, not a painted fender. Wiggle and re bite the clamp to break through film. If you only get clicking, move the negative to a different ground and try again. Also check the big ground strap from battery to block, a corroded ground makes even a healthy pack look weak.