Ann Perez 🥉

Most SUVs use a standard 12V lead acid battery, tbh sometimes AGM. Check the label under the hood or in the manual. If it says 12V and either flooded, AGM, or EFB, choose a smart charger that supports that chemistry and you are good. For speed a 8A to 15A unit will charge a typical SUV battery in a few hours, a smaller one will work but take longer so yeah... works great. If the battery is so low that the charger will not recognize it, you need one that can start from a low voltage or you may have to have the battery tested. If it will not hold at about 12.4V or higher after a full charge, replacement time.

Digital is fine for an Explorer; pick one with stated accuracy around ±1 psi (or ±1%) and prefer a model with a bleed valve a short hose, and a locking/swivel chuck so you can set pressure without leaks. Use the door jamb placard as your target on cold tires, and choose a 0–60 psi gauge for better resolution than a high-range one. Also, weak batteries can skew digital readings, so pop in a fresh one before a trip and recheck against your TPMS.

Swapped pads on my sedan last weekend, no fancy gear needed. Jack it up, wheel off. Caliper bolts come out easy with that model basic wrench. Pull the caliper aside, old pads slide right out. New ones in, compress that piston - used an old screwdriver for leverage, careful not to scratch anything. Bolts back in, wheel on, done. Squeak gone. Yeah, and bleed the brakes if it feels spongy after, but mine was fine. Drive slow at first to bed them in. Saved me that model ton not going to the shop.

Friendly now and firm later with a polite text-only rule repeated. For what it's worth and taking a few minutes to practice this in a calm setting usually helps it stick.

For a 2015 Honda Civic, that model gauges are generally accurate enough for everyday use on sedans, but it's all about how you use them. The key is checking when the tires are cold, like first thing in the morning before driving, because heat from the road can mess with the readings and make them higher than they really are. Find a flat spot to park, unscrew the valve cap, and press the gauge firmly onto the stem without letting air escape. Note the pressure and compare it to the recommended level on the door jamb, usually 32 PSI or so for front and rear. Do it carefully and re-measure and if you need to add air. Regular checks prevent uneven wear and blowouts. I always do mine every couple of weeks and especially in changing weather. Yeah, it's saved me from bigger problems more than once.

Use a digital gauge for long trips but calibrate it at a good shop since cheap ones can be inaccurate. Analog never needs a battery yet is harder to read & so whichever you use keep a close eye on tire pressure.

Thanks & that pick fits my budget and the iPhone/Android need. I'll try that model with the apps you mentioned and follow your connection tips. Appreciate the help!

Yes, provided the scanner lists ABS and SRS support for Toyota and specifically shows coverage for a 2012 Camry. The basic OBD2 readers only talk to the engine. If the description says it can access ABS and airbag modules, you are good. I have pulled and cleared ABS and SRS faults on that exact year Camry with an enhanced reader. Worked fine.

I have seen a lot of jump attempts fail because of the clamp connection and cable losses... honestly Many packs use thin leads and light spring clamps that do not bite through oxidation. The result is the pack may be capable on paper but the clamp sees high resistance and the voltage falls on the way to the starter. Make sure you are on the actual lead post or the dedicated jump post not on the stamped steel brackets. Put the negative on a clean stud on the engine or a bracket near the alternator, not a painted fender. Wiggle and re bite the clamp to break through film. If you only get clicking, move the negative to a different ground and try again. Also check the big ground strap from battery to block, a corroded ground makes even a healthy pack look weak.