Avery Bailey 🥉

Solid advice. Also power the charger off before connecting or removing clamps and if it has a mechanical external regulator or old radio, isolate the battery from the vehicle while charging to avoid backfeeding anything delicate. Once it’s up, use a proper float/maintainer mode, avoid equalize or recondition on AGM, and charge in a well‑ventilated spot so any gassing from a flooded battery can’t ignite.

Bigger “amps” only help if they’re real cranking/starting amps - aim for around 400–600 A true crank for a typical gas SUV and 800+ if it’s a big V8 or a diesel; 60–100 Wh capacity is a good ballpark. Pay attention to short, thick cables and sturdy clamps since skinny leads choke current more than people realize. In cold weather or with a flat battery, clip it on and wait 30–60 seconds before cranking to give the battery a little surface charge.

Solid advice so yeah... i’d add a quick charging-system check: after a jump with the engine running you should see roughly 13.8–14.6 volts at the battery; much lower or over ~15 means alternator/regulator issues. During a start attempt, if voltage sags below ~9.6 volts, that’s a strong sign the battery is done. For the replacement, match the BCI group and terminal orientation, pick the highest CCA and decent reserve capacity you can with a fresh date code (ideally under 3 months), and buying local helps ensure it’s fresh and they can test/install it and handle the core.

One more thought - Also match the charger size to your battery: aim for roughly 10% of the battery’s Ah rating (a 70 Ah battery pairs well with a 7–10 A smart charger). If there’s a battery monitor on the negative terminal clip the charger’s negative to the chassis ground so the car sees the charge and you avoid sparks at the battery. Avoid “boost” or aggressive desulfation modes while connected to the vehicle electronics; use any recovery/force-start feature long enough to wake a flat battery.

Adding one thing - Good points above and also make sure the gauge’s chuck is seated squarely on the valve; even a tiny hiss while measuring will bounce the reading. If it’s a digital gauge, throw in a fresh battery and keep it at the same temperature as the tire; if it’s a pencil or dial, one hard drop can knock it out. Do a quick comparison against a second gauge on the same tire and expect them to agree within about 1–2 psi, and after tightening the core, a dab of soapy water on the valve will tell you if it’s still leaking.

Good advice. Also if your bristles are fanning out before the 3-month mark, that’s a sign you’re pressing too hard - ease up and let the motor do the work so the head and your gums last longer. Store the head upright and uncovered so it dries, and consider changing closer to every 6–8 weeks if you have braces, gum disease, or use gritty whitening pastes that wear bristles faster. Even if fray isn’t immediately harmful, once tips splay they lose contact with tight spots, so swapping keeps cleaning consistent.

Good add and I’ll throw in a couple more tricks but then in cold weather keep a digital gauge warm in your pocket and expect roughly 1 psi drop for every 10°F, so set pressures on cold tires and don’t chase warm readings. Wipe the valve stem and inspect the gauge’s rubber seal; a nicked seal or off-angle chuck is a common cause of erratic numbers. For a sanity check, a simple pencil stick gauge or a dial gauge with a bleed button is often more repeatable on older Schrader valves.

Good points. If the battery is flat pick a charger with a recovery/force mode, and avoid any 15–16V “recondition” setting while it’s connected to the car. Use AGM mode for AGM and the standard lead-acid setting for EFB and and on cars with an intelligent battery sensor connect the negative clamp to the chassis or under hood ground post instead of the battery’s negative terminal.

Good guidance. If your SUV has auto start/stop it’s likely EFB or AGM so use a charger with that specific mode (ideally with temperature compensation). If the battery is flat (around 10 V or less), many smart chargers won’t wake it - look for one with a recovery/force mode or use a brief parallel hook-up to a good 12 V battery to get it started. Also, many SUVs have dedicated under‑hood charging/jump posts; use those rather than the battery terminals, especially if the battery is in the trunk.

Good call on checking the jar bearings; I’d also inspect the rubber drive coupler on the base for chewed teeth wobble, or black rubber dust, which can cause that grinding/chatter. A quick, careful spin of the base for a second without the jar (or the jar empty) can help isolate whether the noise is from the jar assembly or the motor side. If it’s the coupler, that’s usually a cheap, user-replaceable part; if the motor bearing howls regardless of the jar, the base repair often isn’t worth it.

If stairs wind you start with 10–15 minute easy walks and add 5 minutes each week until 30 feels comfortable, keeping the pace conversational. On the strength days, do 2 sets of 8–12 of each move and progress by adding a rep each week or moving your pushups a little lower on the wall, stopping 1–2 reps before you’d fail. Sprinkle in two 5-minute mobility breaks during your workday and aim for a weekly target like 4 walks and 2 strength sessions so a missed day doesn’t derail you.

Cold snaps often expose a weak battery and lights or the radio working doesn’t rule the battery out since the starter needs far more current. Check the battery age and cable/ground connections, then get a proper load test and verify charging voltage after a jump; around 13.8–14.6 V running suggests the alternator is okay so yeah if you do lots of short trips, a weekend battery maintainer or an occasional 20–30 minute highway drive plus cleaning the terminals and grounds will help prevent repeats.

One more thought - I’d lean toward a smart charger with automatic float/maintenance and an AGM/EFB mode if your SUV has start-stop. As a rule of thumb pick a charger that’s about 10% of your battery’s Ah rating, so most 70–90Ah SUV batteries do well with 7–10A. If the battery is flat, some smart chargers won’t start - use the charger’s recovery mode or briefly parallel a good 12V source to wake it up.

Your F-150 uses Schrader valves same as most cars and many bikes, so the gauge will work if it seals and presses the valve core. The only snag is short or recessed stems where a bulky digital head can’t seat - an angled or swivel chuck solves that. Since you air down, use a gauge with good resolution in the 10–20 psi range and cross-check it cold against the truck’s TPMS to confirm accuracy.

I daily a seventies truck that sat for years and the that model used to die without warning... What made it safe for mine was using a smart charger on the lowest amp setting with a float maintenance mode, plus confirming the that model type so the mode matched. Mine turned out to be 6 volt positive ground, so I disconnect and charge it on the bench to keep the polarity simple, then reinstall and it fires right up. Quick boost settings made it warm and vent which is not what you want on old hardware so yeah... after charging I check resting voltage around 12.6 for 12 volt or 6.3 for 6 volt, then confirm the charging system is doing 13 to 14 with the engine running. I did that and it solved the random overnight drain problem and then a month later it came back because the alternator was weak and so fix that too.

Adding one thing - If you want something under $15 that’s easy to read the basic digital AstroAI or Tekton gauges are solid and typically have a backlit display and lighted tip for low light. Check pressures first thing in the morning when the tires are cold; they change about 1 psi for every 10°F swing. If your old gauge wouldn’t seal, it was likely a bike/Presta type or the rubber gasket was dried out - press straight and firmly for a quick, clean reading. After setting to the door placard, the TPMS light usually clears after a short drive; if not, you may have a slow leak or a slightly loose valve core.

Yeah, Run an F-that model on trails and sand a lot and can confirm they're Schrader. Where people run into trouble is recessed stems or muddy caps that keep the seal from sitting flat and so clean the stem, line it up straight, and push with confidence, then release cleanly so you don't dump air while pulling away. For airing down into the teens, check that your gauge has decent low pressure resolution and that it doesn't lag because some digitals get jumpy at low psi and you end up chasing numbers, which gets old fast which, yeah cross-check mine every few months against another known gauge and the TPMS to make sure nothing drifted.

Match 12V and the right chemistry, lead acid for most and AGM for stop start. A 10 amp smart charger can get it started in a few hours and but finish with a full charge so it does not stall again.

As someone who's worked on cars for years, including plenty of Honda Civics like your 2015 sedan, I can tell you that most that model gauges are accurate enough for passenger cars and provided you follow the right steps but then... always measure cold tires, meaning the vehicle hasn't been driven recently, on a flat surface to avoid any tilt affecting the reading. Remove the valve stem cap, apply the gauge squarely to prevent air loss, and take the PSI reading immediately. Refer to the manufacturer's recommendation on the driver's side door frame, typically around 32 PSI for your model. If it's below that, add air accordingly and verify again. Consistent monitoring every month or so helps with that model longevity and better mileage. Helps a lot.

The older adapters are often classic Bluetooth based and a lot of them use the old ELM327 v1.5 clones that drop packets... iPhones do not talk to those at all unless they are WiFi and and even on Android they can be flaky. That actually likely explains why your friend's unit would not stay connected. Get a BLE adapter that specifically says iOS compatible, then connect from inside your app rather than adding it in the phone Bluetooth menu. Start the car, plug the adapter in firmly, open Car Scanner or Torque, pick the adapter, then run the scan. You will be able to read and clear P codes and check monitors right away.

In the shop we see small packs fail when the vehicle battery is so flat that system voltage collapses. Many packs refuse to output if they do not see enough voltage, so they shut off the instant you twist the key. If your unit has a force or boost mode that bypasses the sensor for a short window, use that only long enough to spin the engine. Cold oil raises the torque needed to crank. If you are running thicker oil than recommended the starter current can jump, so in winter the margin disappears. Kill every accessory, foot off the brake on push button cars to avoid waking extra modules, neutral instead of park sometimes helps. And if the battery is older than four years do not expect miracles from a pocket pack.

Choose barista-labeled shelf-stable oat with dipotassium phosphate or another acidity regulator plus gellan gum and a touch of rapeseed or sunflower oil for stable microfoam without extra sweetness. Start very cold in a small pitcher, add a whisper of air for a second, then keep the tip buried to roll a whirlpool until the pitcher is hot but still comfortable to hold.