Anyone know how do I know if my car's battery is dying and what should I replace it with?

Hey Zara! I had the same issue on my 2010 sedan last winter. It would sometimes click and not start, the lights were dim, and a jump would bring it back for a day before it acted up again. I cleaned the terminals and checked the cables, then verified the alternator was charging. The battery was the weak link.

I replaced it with Weize AGM battery. It fit my H5 Group 47 tray and the 680 CCA has handled our cold mornings without drama. The car has started first turn ever since and the lights are back to normal.

It is a bit heavier and it stretched my budget, but it has been solid through freezes. If your symptoms match and the alternator checks out, this battery should fix it.

Hey Zara. Dim lights and starts sometimes usually means the battery is weak, but prove it before spending money. With the engine off after sitting overnight you want to see around 12.6 V at the posts. Under 12.3 means discharged or tired. Start the engine and check again. Anything around 13.8 to 14.7 shows the alternator is charging. If the alternator checks out and a jump gets it going then the battery is the culprit.

On a tight budget in a cold climate focus on fit and cold cranking amps. Find the size code printed on your current battery or in the owner manual and stick to that so it drops into the tray and the posts line up. Then choose the highest CCA you can afford within that size. Reserve capacity helps too on cold mornings.

Under 100 is tough for many cars now so watch for sales and make sure you return the old one to get the core credit. If you can swing it an AGM type handles cold and vibration well, though a conventional flooded unit with adequate CCA will do the job.

When you swap it out disconnect negative first then positive. Clean the clamps, install the new one, positive first then negative. Make sure the hold down is snug and the cables are tight. Works great.

Before buying anything I would have a parts store do a free load test. They can tell you in two minutes if the battery is failing and if the alternator is healthy. That saved me from guessing.

If it does need a battery check the size code on the old case and match it. For winter go for higher CCA rather than extra features. In your budget that usually means a basic flooded unit with a fresh date stamp and the correct footprint so it actually fits. Swap is simple negative off first then positive, reverse to install. Fixed.

Likely a weak battery so check with a multimeter 12.6 when off and higher while running then replace it if low with the right size and higher CCA for cold. You can DIY the swap on a budget and if issues continue after the new battery suspect the alternator.

Sounds like your battery is on its last legs... Those symptoms - not starting, dim lights, and jumping it only helps temporarily - that's classic battery failure. Especially in an old car like your 2010 sedan. Cold weather makes it worse because batteries lose power in low temps.

First and get it tested. Most auto parts stores do free battery checks. They'll tell you if it's bad. If it is and you'll need a replacement that fits your car's group size. Check your owner's manual for that. For cold climates, look for one with high cold cranking amps. That'll help on those freezing mornings.

Since your budget is under $100, shop around at local stores or online for deals. Installation is straightforward - disconnect the old one, clean the terminals, and hook up the new. If you're unsure, watch a quick video tutorial. Done it myself a few times. Works great.

Intermittent no start with dim lights is classic low state of charge.

Since you already inspected the cables and did not see corrosion and check the numbers.

After sitting overnight measure across the posts.

Healthy reads near 12.6.

Around 12.2 is roughly half charged and will crank slow in the cold.

Start the engine and hold a fast idle with headlights on.

Voltage should sit in the mid 14s but then if it does, the charging system is fine and the battery is on its way out.

For fitment use the size code printed on the label of the current unit or check the owner manual.

That actually code determines the tray footprint and terminal orientation so you do not fight the cables.

In a cold climate target higher cold cranking amps within that size and do not go down from what the car came with.

More is fine.

Reserve capacity helps as well.

Also check the date stamp on the new one and pick something built within the last few months.

Your price ceiling is tight for many modern sizes, so call around and check for rebates and the core return credit, sometimes that gets you under the line.

If the car has basic electrical demands a standard flooded battery with strong CCA will be fine, AGM is nice but costs more and your alternator will not care either way.

When you replace it save any radio codes if needed, remove the negative cable first then the positive, lift out the old unit with care because they are heavy and can spill if tipped, drop the new one in, positive back on then negative, and tighten the hold down.

Recheck that the lights are bright and it cranks quickly on the next cold morning and you are done.