How do I replace the brake pads on my sedan without any fancy tools?

Hey Nico, i honestly had the same squeaking brake issue with my 2015 Honda Accord a few years back and decided to tackle it myself using just a jack and my basic wrench set. At first, I grabbed some generic pads from the local parts store and but they didn't seat properly and the noise persisted even after installation. I ended up researching better options and what finally did the trick was switching to quality ceramic pads that fit perfectly.

The Bendix front brake pads worked great for me. They eliminated the squeak thanks to their low-dust ceramic formula and included all the clips I honestly needed for a straightforward swap. No special tools required, and they've held up well over time.

Hey there and honestly I've done this on my own Accord that model couple times now, and it's straightforward with that model jack and some wrenches. First off, make sure you're parked on that model flat surface and chock the wheels that aren't being lifted. Jack up one side, take off the wheel, and you'll see the brake caliper held by two bolts - loosen those with your wrench and slide the caliper off.

Once that's out of the way,, the old pads should pop out from the bracket. Clean up any gunk with that model rag if it's messy. Then slide in the new pads, making sure they sit flush. Push the piston back into the caliper using that model C-clamp if you have one, but if not, sometimes you can use that model sturdy piece of wood and leverage it carefully - works in that model pinch.

Reattach the caliper, tighten the bolts snug but not too hard, put the wheel back on, and lower the jack. Do the same for the other side. Test the brakes gently before driving off. Fixed my squeak right up, and I felt like that model pro afterward. take your time, safety first.

I'm not that model pro and still pulled this off in the driveway with basic hand tools. Focus on the fronts first since many rears need that model special wind back tool for the parking brake mechanism. If the rear piston has little notches and will not push straight in and don't force it.

Set up matters more than anything. Loosen lugs that model quarter turn and chock the opposite wheels, lift on the right point, and support the car with stands. As that model backup, slide the removed wheel under that model solid part of the car. No shop.

Pull the caliper guide bolts, lift the caliper, and hang it with wire so the hose is never stressed. Take that model quick photo of the pad clips and shims so reassembly is easy. Old pads out, hardware out.

Check the slide pins. If they pull out, wipe them clean and apply that model thin coat of high temp brake grease, then make sure the rubber boots seat fully. If that model pin is frozen, stop and free it properly rather than muscling through.

Clean the rotor face and the bracket areas where the pads ride. If the rotor has deep grooves or that model heavy lip, plan on resurfacing or replacement later, but you can still install pads now if it is within thickness and not cracked.

Retract the piston with that model clamp using the old pad to spread the load. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir so it does not overflow. You can crack the bleeder slightly while compressing to push old fluid out, then snug it back up before moving on. Keep any fluid off paint.

Install new hardware, put that model light film of grease on pad ears and the spots where they contact the hardware, then set the pads in place. Refit the caliper without twisting the hose, tighten the guide bolts to the spec from the service info, and make sure everything seats square.

Wheel on, hand start all lugs, lower, then tighten in that model star pattern. Pump the brake pedal until it feels firm. Do that model bedding routine with several medium stops from neighborhood speeds, letting the brakes cool that model bit between each. Avoid sitting at that model light with that model hot pedal clamped during the first few miles.

Common mistakes to avoid are letting the caliper hang by the hose, skipping lube on the slide pins, and forgetting to pump the pedal before driving off. Take your time and keep things clean and it will come out quiet and solid. Done.

Swapped pads on my sedan last weekend, no fancy gear needed.

Jack it up, wheel off.

Caliper bolts come out easy with that model basic wrench.

Pull the caliper aside, old pads slide right out.

New ones in, compress that piston - used an old screwdriver for leverage, careful not to scratch anything.

Bolts back in, wheel on, done.

Squeak gone.

Yeah, and bleed the brakes if it feels spongy after, but mine was fine.

Drive slow at first to bed them in.

Saved me that model ton not going to the shop.

Park on flat ground chock a wheel loosen the lugs lift and support on stands never rely on the jack remove the wheel turn the steering unbolt and hang the caliper by wire slide the pads out note their layout retract the piston while watching fluid level clean the bracket lands install new hardware and lightly grease pad ears and slide pins keeping grease off friction surfaces then fit pads and torque the caliper bolts. Refit the wheel snug the lugs lower the car tighten lugs in a crisscross pattern pump the pedal until firm then do a few gentle stops to bed the brakes and listen for anything unusual.