Which OBD2 scanner works best for reading ABS codes on older cars?

For older cars that need reliable ABS and SRS access, I would pick Foxwell NT630 Plus. It is a true handheld that consistently talks to brake and airbag modules on late 2000s and early 2010s vehicles, gives live data so you can watch wheel speed sensors in real time, and shows freeze frame for OBD2 engine faults which makes it easier to understand what was happening when the code set.

Quick tip for your 2008 sedan and 2012 SUV. Update the tool before first use, select the vehicle by year make model rather than the generic OBD2 menu, and use the live data stream while rolling slowly in a safe spot to compare each wheel sensor. Clear codes only after you confirm the fix so they do not come right back.

On cars from that era, what matters most is coverage. Pick a handheld that explicitly lists ABS and SRS for your exact year make model, not just generic OBD2. Make sure it does live data with graphing for wheel speeds and can read manufacturer specific codes as well as clear them. Freeze frame is only defined for engine DTCs but the better handhelds display it clearly so you can see engine load coolant temp and speed at the moment the code set.

Before buying, look up the coverage list by VIN or at least by year make model. For your 2008 sedan and 2012 SUV you want ISO 9141 or KWP for the older networks and CAN for both, the tool should mention those. Real buttons and a cable. That reduces connection flakiness and makes it easier to use with gloves. Update its software right away, then connect using the vehicle specific menu and run a full system scan before drilling into ABS and airbag. For diagnosis, graph all four wheel speeds and do a slow straight roll in a safe empty lot, a dropout or one wheel lagging is your clue. If you change parts like a hub or a steering angle sensor the same tool should offer basic resets or calibrations, handy on many models. Only clear codes after a proper road test and another scan. Works great.

Been down this road with an 08 sedan and a 12 family hauler. I ended up happier with a simple handheld instead of a phone dongle because it talks to the brake and airbag modules without fuss and the screen is readable in daylight. No apps. When you shop make sure the unit spells out ABS and SRS coverage for your exact years, not engine codes, and that it can stream live data so you can see each wheel speed and graph it. Freeze frame will pop up only for engine faults but a decent handheld presents it cleanly so you can capture the snapshot before you touch anything.

A few tips that saved me time. Update the tool first. Choose the car by year make model in the scan menu, not the generic OBD2 path. Do a slow roll in a straight line and watch the wheel speeds, the bad channel will drop or jitter. Low battery voltage can make these systems act weird so throw a charger on if needed. Save a report before clearing so if a code returns you have the original data to compare. And if you fix a steering related issue, look for a steering angle calibration option within the same tool, it can keep the ABS light from coming back after the repair.