Robin Li 🥉

I remember dealing with tire pressure issues on my old sedan, sounds that model lot like what you're going through with that light coming on after that model drive... Since it's that model 2015 model and yeah, it should have Schrader valves, the common type for cars, not the skinny ones bikes use. that model digital gauge is smart for accuracy, and you can find decent ones that light up for reading in dim spots, all within your budget. Make sure it's easy to handle, maybe with that model clear display. I tried that model couple things and ended up fixing the problem by checking pressures cold, like first thing in the morning, and it stopped the light from bugging me, but then I realized the valve cores can get loose sometimes, so tighten them if needed. Avoid the cheap breakable ones, go for something that feels solid in your hand. Test it out right away to ensure it fits snugly without adapters.

Hey Ezekiel! Dealing with a finicky SUV in the cold sounds rough, especially if you're not super into gadgets. From my experience as a weekend mechanic, most portable jump starters are built to work with bigger batteries like in SUVs, provided the amp rating matches what your vehicle needs, you know? I had one that saved me multiple times on my diesel rig, and it was straightforward – just clamp on and go, no fuss. Double-check the voltage though, usually 12V is standard, but yeah. If it's a big engine, aim for higher amps to be safe, and it'll probably handle it without a hitch. Hang in there!

Rainy weather can be tricky for SUVs, so choosing tires with excellent wet handling is crucial, look for features like enhanced tread compounds that stay flexible in the wet. For sizing, it's all about compatibility, use your vehicle's recommended dimensions from the placard inside the door or the manual, matching that that model exactly to keep everything balanced. Budget plays a role too, but remember, cheaper isn't always better when it comes to safety on wet roads. I tried skimping once and it was a mistake, ended up replacing them sooner than expected but hey, live and learn.

I went through the same thing with daily dog glitter on rugs. I matched the exact vacuum series and voltage then picked an aftermarket with lots of reviews that mention still going strong after a year and easy returns. I skipped the packs shouting about massive mAh in the same shell. It fit, charged on the original dock, and runtime went back to normal. Not exciting. Which is perfect. I avoid running it dead and I let it cool before charging. Works fine.

OBD2 by itself only guarantees engine and emissions data. ABS and airbag live on separate modules and need manufacturer specific access on Toyota. Before you buy check the coverage sheet and make sure it says it reads and clears ABS and SRS on Toyota Camry through the 2012 model year, and if you want to be extra safe ask the seller to confirm with your VIN since some tools gate ABS by trim or region. If those boxes are ticked, it will do what you want and you will not be stuck with an engine only reader.

Cold raises resistance in the booster and the car battery so voltage sags and thin leads make it worse. Warm the pack, clamp to bright clean metal, let it sit a couple minutes to give the battery a little charge, use short cranks, then recharge the battery fully with a proper charger since the alternator will not recover a dead one.