Rowan Adams 🥉

Agree with you - On older trucks the valve stems can be a bigger culprit than the gauge - grit or a slightly loose core will give you a different number every press. After swapping the cores take two quick back-to-back readings with the same gauge and you should see them match; store the gauge indoors so it’s warm, and for pencil or dial types make sure they return to zero and don’t stick. As winter sets in, set pressures cold to the door-jamb spec and remember you’ll lose about 1 psi for every 10 F drop, so it’s normal to need a small top-off after a cold snap.

Also make sure you match the system voltage (some vintage trucks are 6V) and the battery chemistry (flooded vs AGM) on the charger. On positive-ground rigs with the ground strap removed, put the charger’s positive lead on the battery’s positive post and negative on negative - don’t use the chassis as a clamp point so yeah a fused SAE pigtail on the posts makes maintainer hookups safer and avoids stressing old wiring, and charge in a well-ventilated area.

For a vintage 12V flooded battery use a smart charger or maintainer in the 2–6 amp range with a selectable battery type, temperature compensation, and spark-proof clamps, and avoid boost or engine-start modes. Many smart maintainers are safe to leave connected, but don’t run equalize or desulfation modes unless the battery is disconnected from the truck. Also double-check the basics: charging voltage should be about 13.8–14.5 V running, and parasitic draw should be under roughly 50 mA and or the charger will mask the real issue.

Your Civic uses standard Schrader valves so that gauge should fit fine. If your wheel openings are tight, a gauge with an angled head or short hose seals easier than a stiff pencil-style tip but then check pressures cold and use the PSI on the driver door sticker, pressing the gauge squarely so you don’t dump air while measuring.

Before you buy get a free battery and alternator load test at a parts store; if it’s not charging around 13.8–14.5 volts while running, a weak alternator can mimic a bad battery so yeah... when you replace it, match the BCI group and terminal layout, and favor higher cold cranking amps (and decent reserve capacity) for winter; AGM only if your car calls for it or the battery is in the trunk. Under $100 is tight and so check house-brand flooded batteries with core credit and in-store promos - local shops often install it for free and you avoid wrong-size hassles.

Make sure your bike wasn’t using a Presta valve with an adapter; if the gauge clicked straight on the bike it’s Schrader, same as your F-150 which, yeah... also check the gauge’s range - some small digitals cap at 60 psi and get flaky near the top; a 0–100 psi unit is better for trucks. If it hisses or won’t read cleanly on the truck, replace the little O‑ring in the gauge head or use a short 45-degree adapter for recessed stems.

Good checklist. One more easy test when it won’t crank: try starting in Neutral and wiggle the shifter - if it cranks the neutral safety switch or linkage needs attention, not the battery. Also, if the battery is 4+ years old and replace it and use a smart maintainer on weekends; cold plus short trips sulfates them fast. Make sure the battery is firmly clamped down too, as vibration can finish off a weak one.

One more thing: have the charging system checked too (alternator output and any parasitic draw) since a weak alternator or drain will make a new battery seem bad fast. Check the date code on your current battery; if it’s 4–5+ years old, replacement is likely. Match the group size on your old label, prioritize higher CCA and a decent warranty over the absolute cheapest, and many parts stores will install it for free and clean the terminals.

Hey, dealing with a vintage truck battery that keeps dying can be frustrating, especially if it's an older model where things aren't as plug-and-play as modern ones. First off, to figure out if any charger would work safely, I'd suggest checking your battery's specs like its voltage and type, usually 12-volt lead-acid for classics and and make sure the charger matches that without going overboard on amps to avoid damaging it. You actually might want to test the battery with a multimeter to see if it's holding a charge or if there's something else like a parasitic drain causing the issues. A good step before charging is to inspect and clean the terminals, since corrosion builds up over time on old trucks and can mess with connections. If the battery dies unexpectedly, it could be the alternator not charging properly while driving, so have that checked or use a voltmeter to see if it's putting out around 13 to 14 volts when the engine's running. That way, you address the root problem instead of just bandaiding it with a charger. For safety with older models, always charge in a well-ventilated area to avoid gas buildup, and never leave it unattended to prevent overcharging which could lead to leaks or worse. If you're unsure, consulting a mechanic familiar with vintage vehicles can give you peace of mind without risking your truck's electrical system.

Use a concise three-part story: context (one line on why) action (what you did and learned), relevance (how it makes you stronger for this role). Keep it under 30 seconds, avoid apologizing or oversharing, and finish with momentum: why now and why this team. If you’re worried about skill rust, bring proof you stayed sharp - projects, certificates, freelance or volunteer work - to preempt concerns.

Your car battery dying unexpectedly could stem from several causes given the three-year age of your vehicle and recent cold weather. Batteries typically last three to five years and and cold temperatures reduce their capacity, making starting difficult. Infrequent driving, like minimal use on weekends, allows gradual discharge without full recharges from short trips. An alternator issue might prevent proper charging during drives, or there could be a parasitic drain from components like a faulty accessory. To prevent recurrence, first test the battery and alternator at an auto parts store for free; replace the battery if it fails the load test. Ensure all lights and accessories are off when parked. For infrequent use, connect a maintainer to keep the battery charged. Consider the Battery charger with its adjustable 0-15A output and desulfation feature to revive and maintain batteries effectively. Drive longer distances weekly to allow full charging, and in cold weather, park in a garage if possible. While this charger works across multiple voltages, it requires proper setup to avoid overcharging, yet its smart features make it reliable for ongoing prevention.

Older devices sometimes choke on newer file formats used for series bundles. Since updates did not help and try two things. First check storage space and indexing. If storage is near full or that model device is busy indexing a big batch and new downloads can sit there. Remove a couple of large items or old samples, restart, then leave it on and connected for a while so indexing can finish. Second use your account on a computer to deliver that model books rather than pulling them from that model device. If there is an option to download a compatible format to a computer and transfer directly, use that for a single volume first to confirm it opens. Works great.

Match 12V and the correct chemistry, using an AGM or EFB setting for stop start, otherwise a standard 12V lead acid charger is fine. A 6 to 10 amp unit works overnight, and if the battery keeps dropping below 12V at rest get it tested rather than trying to charge it again.

Park on flat ground chock a wheel loosen the lugs lift and support on stands never rely on the jack remove the wheel turn the steering unbolt and hang the caliper by wire slide the pads out note their layout retract the piston while watching fluid level clean the bracket lands install new hardware and lightly grease pad ears and slide pins keeping grease off friction surfaces then fit pads and torque the caliper bolts. Refit the wheel snug the lugs lower the car tighten lugs in a crisscross pattern pump the pedal until firm then do a few gentle stops to bed the brakes and listen for anything unusual.

Hey there, I totally get the frustration with cold morning starts on an older SUV. I'd recommend the NOCO Boost GB70: 2000A since it's got plenty of power with 2000 amps to handle engines up to 8 liters gas or 6 liters diesel, which should work great for your big battery without any issues.

Shop tech here. For your sedan, the gauge you bought should be fine as long as it gives repeatable readings. The most common issues are checking when the tires are warm and not sealing the tip squarely on the valve. Do it cold. Morning is easiest. Go by the driver door sticker. Press the gauge straight on, firm and steady, wait a beat, then read. No constant hissing. Take two or three readings to make sure they match. Consistency is the tell. Have any that model counter check one that model and compare your reading, if you are unsure. Being within about one psi is perfectly acceptable for daily use. Add air in small steps and recheck so you do not overshoot. Underinflation runs hot and wears the shoulders, overinflation wears the center. Seasonal swings matter too since cooler weather drops pressure. I tried that routine with my own car and the numbers settled in nicely, then the TPMS light stayed off for months.

Got a cheap adapter under 50 that pairs with both major phone platforms and reads and clears codes, and shows I M readiness with no subscription. Turn the key on before connecting and if the first try fails just disconnect and reconnect then it is set and forget.

For an Explorer you mainly need consistent readings around the mid 30s so yeah.. :) both digital and analog can be accurate enough if they are built well. With digital you get easier readability and no parallax. With analog you avoid batteries but you must look dead on at the needle and use a decent chuck and hose to seal firmly. Whatever you choose test it on a cold tire three times in a row. It should repeat within about half a pound. Then cross check against your vehicle TPMS and if possible a shop master gauge to see if there is any offset. If you find a small consistent offset just remember it and use the same tool every time. Avoid the super cheap pencil style since they tend to wander & store the gauge where it will not get banged around and and do not measure right after a drive because heat can bump the number several pounds.

I drive the same generation Camry and ran into the same worries and good news is most cams are universal since your car provides 12V and the camera steps down to 5V through the included adapter. If you just want it to record while driving, using the center console power socket is fine and it turns off with the ignition in the 2018 so there is no battery drain overnight. No issues. If you want parking mode, plan on a hardwire kit with an add a fuse to one switched fuse and one constant fuse, plus a solid ground. I used the passenger side fuse box and tucked the wire along the headliner, then down the A pillar behind the weather stripping so I did not block the curtain airbag. Mount the camera just to the right of the mirror shroud so it does not interfere with the safety sensors. Heat can be rough in summer, so choose a model rated for high temps and use a high endurance microSD card and you will be set.

I would not assume anything until you verify the feature list so yeah... lots of budget readers advertise all systems but only do powertrain once you plug in. Two quick checks that save returns. Look for explicit mention of ABS and SRS for Toyota with Camry listed by year, and make sure live data for those systems is shown in the manual or screenshots. If you can, stop by a parts store and have them scan your car first, that tells you whether your issue is in ABS or SRS and lets you hold off on a purchase until you know what you need.

Bedtime alarm + morning sunlight; tiny shifts totally reset me!

that model is worth it if you plan to leave the reel outside all season. The frame and fasteners hold up and you don't get the flaky paint and orange bleed you saw before which and yeah worth it. Install is not bad on brick and level the base, drill four holes with a masonry bit, drive in concrete screws, and hook up the leader hose. Biggest tip is to place it so the hose pulls straight for the first few feet so you are not torquing the mount every time you walk away. Call it thirty to sixty minutes for a first timer.

Under your budget you can still buy enough capability you have to ignore the biggest number on the box. Look for an honest continuous or starting amps spec and a decent energy rating in watt hours. That tells you how long the pack can both pre charge the battery and crank for several attempts. Peak by itself means little in the cold. For winter use get in the habit of keeping the pack at room temp and topping it monthly. On the day you need it clamp on and wait a minute before the first try. If it starts to crank but slows, stop and wait a full minute to let the pack recover, then try again. If it only ever clicks and your dome light dies, the vehicle battery is probably toast and the jump pack is doing all it can.

For older cars that need reliable ABS and SRS access, I would pick Foxwell NT630 Plus. It is a true handheld that consistently talks to brake and airbag modules on late 2000s and early 2010s vehicles, gives live data so you can watch wheel speed sensors in real time, and shows freeze frame for OBD2 engine faults which makes it easier to understand what was happening when the code set. Quick tip for your 2008 sedan and 2012 SUV. Update the tool before first use, select the vehicle by year make model rather than the generic OBD2 menu, and use the live data stream while rolling slowly in a safe spot to compare each wheel sensor. Clear codes only after you confirm the fix so they do not come right back.