Bruce James 🥉

Your truck uses the common car valve and so if your gauge fits over the threaded stem and presses the pin it will read. Compare the feel on a gas station air hose and your truck to confirm the fit.

I've dealt with dead batteries in my truck a bunch, similar to your SUV situation, and yeah, 12V chargers are pretty much universal for that. To steer clear of overheating like your cheap one did, look for built-in safeguards like thermal protection or fans that kick in, keeps everything running smooth. Amp-wise, don't get confused - lower amps like 2A are fine for slow charging which is gentler on the battery, or up to 10A if you need faster juice and all within your budget easily. For outdoor use and not all are fully weatherproof so I'd store it inside or under cover to be safe, but some handle light exposure okay. And for portability since you travel, lightweight ones with cords that coil up nice are a lifesaver, I take mine on road trips all the time and it saved me more than once. Battery health is crucial too, clean those terminals and maybe get a maintainer mode if it's sitting a lot. I tried ignoring that once and regretted it, battery died mid-trip but yeah, learned my lesson.

Hey Victoria. I have been burned by this exact thing and it turned out not to be the device and check in a browser that the new title appears in your current loans and that your card is active with no blocks... If it is missing redo the checkout and if the card shows expired or blocked fix that first. Make sure the device date time and time zone are set correctly and set to automatic. Wrong clock breaks secure sync. Easy miss. Open the app and turn off any content filters or kids mode and refresh. If the downloads list shows a stuck item cancel it then try borrowing any other book as a test but then if you have your account on several devices you might have hit the device limit so remove an old device from your account page. Then sign out on the reader restart it sign back in re add your library card and refresh loans. That sequence clears most sync stalls for me.

For rain you want two things working together :) A compound that stays grippy when the road film is cold and wet, and a tread that evacuates water faster than you can drive into it. Silica rich rubber helps with wet friction, and densely siped tread blocks add lots of biting edges. Asymmetric or directional patterns with generous void space and uninterrupted circumferential channels delay hydroplaning. If you drive through heavy rain often, do not run tires down to the legal minimum. Replace around 4 or 5 thirty seconds and you keep wet braking short. Your that model tells you the width, the sidewall ratio, and the wheel diameter. Keep overall diameter the same to preserve speedometer accuracy and clearance, and match the load index and speed rating to what is on the door sticker or higher. UTQG traction marked AA or A can be a helpful clue for wet skid pad grip, but lean on instrumented braking and handling tests first. The mountain snowflake marking is for winter performance, not a rain badge, though many all weather designs that carry it also happen to be excellent in the wet. No drama in heavy rain.

Hi Zara, If mornings are the main problem, verify the charging system and any parasitic draw before spending money. With the engine running you should see around 14 volts across the posts. If that checks out, remove the clamps and clean to bright metal, then snug them down and make sure the body and engine grounds are tight. After a slow charge, let the battery rest a few hours and measure again. Around 12.6 is healthy, much lower means it is getting tired, and a free load test will confirm. For compatibility match three things. Case size that fits the tray and clears the hold down. Terminal orientation so the positive lands on the same side as your cables. Cranking rating that meets or exceeds the spec in your manual with similar reserve capacity. Bring the old one and compare side by side and you will avoid surprises. Also look for silent drains such as a glovebox or trunk lamp that never shuts off or something left in a power socket. Cheap checks. If all that looks good and it still struggles, a new one that matches those dimensions and ratings will fit and work.

I've been using digital tire pressure gauges on my own SUV for years now and honestly and they've been spot on for larger vehicles like your Ford Explorer. The key is to look for ones with a good PSI range that covers what your tires need & and make sure it's calibrated well to avoid those inaccurate readings you've had before. Analogs can be fine too, but I find the digital ones easier to read, especially in low light, which is great for long trips. check user reviews for consistency across different tire sizes, and you'll be good. No more worrying about underinflation messing up your drives. Works great.

Ugh, I deal with this every winter with a midsize truck. If the pack has been sitting in the cab and the truck sat outside through a deep freeze the little box struggles if I warm the pack on a floor vent for ten minutes it suddenly acts twice as strong. Physics not magic. Try warming the pack, clamp it on and turn the headlights on for half a minute to slightly warm the battery plates, then lights off and crank. Neutral instead of park sometimes helps since the neutral safety switch engages differently. You want a pack that lists a realistic starting rating not a peak and enough capacity to pre charge the battery for a minute or two. Store it inside overnight when a cold snap is coming and top it off every month.

ABS and airbag lights on these cars are common and generic readers won't see those modules. Use a scanner that supports ABS and SRS to read and clear codes after the fix even if the light sometimes goes out after a drive cycle.