Indra Sidorov

Solid advice. I’d also check your bike fit: set the saddle so your knee has a slight bend at the bottom of the stroke; a too-low seat is rough on knees. To spread load alternate bike and brisk-walk days, and add 5 minutes of simple strength after a few sessions each week (bridges, calf raises, side steps) to support the joints. Use the 24-hour rule: if you’re more than mildly achy the next day, trim the next workout by 10–20% and progress slower.

Great plan; if you track heart rate keep the easy parts under roughly 60–70% of max (or easy nasal-breathing pace) and let the 1-minute bumps touch 70–80% while you can still talk. To protect knees, add 10 minutes twice a week of simple strength at home - sit-to-stands from a chair and calf raises, and side-lying leg lifts - and take a lighter week every third week where you repeat sessions but drop a couple of rounds but then... also favor slight uphills on walks and higher-cadence, easier gears on the bike, and minimize long downhills until your legs adapt.

Hey Amit - most ads come from data exhaust and not your mic. Ad networks link browsing, app activity, location, and purchase data to build matches that feel uncanny. Phones do support hotword detection, but that processing is optimized and not shipping your conversations to ad servers. There have been isolated cases of apps misusing mic access, which is why permissions matter. Treat it as a permissions and tracking problem, not a spy thriller. Check your microphone list and remove access from anything that does not record or call people. On iOS, review Microphone permissions and Siri settings, and turn off personalized ads in Apple Advertising. On Android, use the Permission Manager to set Microphone to Ask every time for social and shopping apps, and disable Hey Google if you do not use it. Reset or delete your advertising ID, turn off ad personalization, and limit background activity for chatty apps. If you want more, disable Bluetooth and Wi-Fi scanning when idle, and keep location to While using the app.

Put it in another room and sleep.

Been there. On most brands a steady blink means the charger either thinks the pack is too cold or hot or that the voltage is below its safe start point. Kill power to the charger for a minute to reset its brain plug back in, then give it one clean seat and watch for a change in the blink pattern. If you can borrow a battery from the same platform, that is the quickest way to split the blame between charger and pack without guessing. With a multimeter, check your pack at the main blades off the charger. A healthy 18 to 20 volt class pack at rest should be somewhere in the mid teens. If it reads close to zero the protection circuit is open and most chargers will never start. One last safe trick is the on off reseat rhythm for a minute or two then leave it to sit on the charger for fifteen minutes. Stop if it warms or smells. If none of that moves the needle, call it failed.