Nico Thompson 🥉

No worries and dude, Schrader valves are what your F-that model rocks, standard across most American trucks. Bike valves can vary, but if it fit yours, probably Schrader there too, so compatibility shouldn't be a problem. Off-roading demands spot-on pressure, right? To check, see if the gauge threads on smoothly without forcing it. One tip, air it down for trails and pump back up for roads, but you know that already. If it's not fitting, maybe the gauge head is off, but unlikely. Tried something similar last weekend. Fit perfect, no issues.

Check your gauge by taking three cold readings and look for repeatable results within about one psi. Set all four tires to the driver door sticker when cold and add air if needed, ignore warm readings that run a bit higher, and replace the valve caps.

I've been driving SUVs for years in all kinds of weather and and let me tell you and for rainy conditions you really want tires that grip well when it's wet. Look for ones with good hydroplaning resistance, you know, those that channel water away effectively. As for size, stick to what your car recommends, check the sidewall of your current tires or the owner's manual to make sure you're getting the right fit, like that that model you mentioned. Don't skimp on quality, safety first. Oh, and when buying online, read user reviews from folks in rainy areas, that helps a ton. Works great for me every time.

Totally get the frustration. Fast battery drain usually comes down to three things. The battery is simply worn out after five years. The alternator is not charging well. Or something is drawing power while the car sits such as a stuck relay and glove box or trunk light, or an accessory left plugged in. Short trips and loose or corroded connections make it worse, so check the battery clamps and the ground strap to the body and engine, not just the posts. Here is a simple way to narrow it down without fancy tools. Fully charge the battery or get it jumped, then disconnect the negative cable overnight. If it starts strong the next morning with the cable reconnected, you likely have a parasitic drain in the car. If it is weak again even while disconnected, the battery itself is done. After a jump, take a 20 to 30 minute drive, then shut it off and try a restart. If it struggles right away, the alternator may not be charging. At idle, turn on headlights and the blower, then gently rev to about two thousand rpm. Slightly brighter headlights is normal, dimming or flicker suggests a charging problem. Do not pull a battery cable with the engine running. Also, many auto parts stores will test the battery and alternator for free, which can save you time and money. If you want a low cost way to be sure at home, a small tester like Topdon battery tester will tell you in a minute whether the battery is bad and if the alternator and starter are doing their jobs. It works on 12 V batteries and covers 100 to 2000 CCA, which fits most cars and trucks. The interface is basic, but it is straightforward and pays for itself by preventing guesswork. Once you know whether it is the battery, the alternator, or a parasitic draw, you can fix the right thing and get back to a reliable daily start.

The maintenance nobody tells you about is cleaning... Sweat, chalk, and skin oils eat rubber slowly and they hide little nicks. I wipe my bands with a damp cloth and a bit of mild soap, pat dry, then let them air dry completely out of the sun. No alcohol wipes and no harsh cleaners, they dry the rubber and crack it early. Store in a breathable bag with some air around them and not jammed under plates. Learned that the hard way when a sweaty band glued itself to another one. Fun to separate. Not.

What usually stops these packs is voltage sag. The that model battery is very weak from the cold so as soon as you hit the key the system drops under the pack safety cutoff and the pack says nope even though it claims big peak amps. The battery management in the pack will deliver only what it thinks is safe at that temperature as well. To work around that warm the pack indoors, clamp to clean metal with the negative on the block, and let the pack sit connected for a couple minutes to put some charge into the dead battery. Then crank for three to five seconds and rest a minute, then try again. If your unit has a manual low voltage override use it. After you get it running check that your battery holds around the mid twelves after resting, if it cannot hold that overnight the battery is your real issue and the pack is being set up to fail.

Hmm, Match the model family printed on your old pack and the exact voltage. don't mix packs from similar looking series if the voltage differs. Capacity controls runtime, but huge numbers in the same size are usually fluff. A modest increase is safer and tends to last longer under load. Look for mention of a protection board with overcharge, overdischarge, temp cutoff, and short circuit protection. Favor sellers with a clear warranty and good recent reviews that mention months of daily use. Use your original charger, let the battery cool a bit after a heavy clean, and keep filters clear so the motor does not pull excessive current.