Angela Howard

Agree on PB29 with PBr7. For a simple lightfast mixing core, add PY150 (transparent yellow), PV19 (rose), and PB15:3 (phthalo blue GS) and skip fugitive favorites like PR83 Alizarin Crimson or fluorescent Opera Pink. If a paint lacks an ASTM rating, aim for Blue Wool 7–8 or do a quick window test by half-covering a swatch for a couple of months.

Good additions. I’d also keep them out of direct sun entirely - UV is a big driver of edge yellowing - so a simple curtain plus a cool stable 40–50% humidity helps a lot. If you box any, use acid-free boxes with a small rechargeable silica gel pack, but avoid sealing books in plastic that traps moisture. If you want to go further, deacidification spray can slow yellowing, but it’s often not cost-effective for modern mass-market paperbacks.

One more quick check: with it unplugged grab the blade hub and try to rock it side to side; any play or clicking means the jar bearing is shot & and any brown rust or sticky residue under the jar points to a leaking seal. Also look for wobble in the rubber drive coupler on the base; if it’s chewed up or shedding dust, that’s your grinder. The usual fix is replacing the jar blade assembly or the coupler, and since you’re around a year in, see if it’s still under warranty before running it again and risking the motor.

Solid list. If you want an alizarin substitute that won’t fade look at PR179, PR177, or PR264 for that deep crimson role, and PV16 is a dependable, non-fugitive violet if you don’t need the intensity of PV23. When you light-test, tape half the swatch so you have a covered control, label brand and pigment code, and test both full-strength and a 1:8 tint. Also stick to artist-grade single pigments where you can and since student lines often have more fillers and mixes that skew results.

Same, the boredom hits me on day two and then I doom-scroll DoorDash.