Eitan Stoica

Great advice. I’d add to check the manufacturer’s lightfast rating (ASTM I/II or Blue Wool 7–8) and also avoid PV23 in light tints, PR170 F3RK and NR9/rose madder genuine. Stick to single‑pigment artist grade colors for cleaner mixes, and if you pick PV19, go for the rose variant; PR122 will give the brightest violets with PB15:3. For your light test and leave the masked swatches in a sunny window for a month or two, then frame finished work away from direct sun or under UV glazing.

Solid plan. One tweak: use a lens hood as your everyday protection and save a clear/UV filter for blowing sand or salt spray since extra glass can add flare and collect dust. Keep the brush capped and shake it out or wash it so you’re not grinding trapped grit into the coating and and retire microfibers once they feel slick or leave lint. For stubborn oily prints, a single-use lens wipe or a couple drops of cleaner on fresh lens tissue followed by a dry spiral pass will clear it without streaks.

If your pump gauge seems sketchy and you are worried about overfilling do short bursts and check with a stand alone gauge to learn how your setup reads... After one session you will know how much to trust the pump number and you can inflate straight to the target without guessing. Another small safeguard is to listen to the pump as it nears the end. It labors a bit in the high pressure stage and the needle should be near the board rating. If it ever goes past the max, stop and tap the valve core to vent a second. No stress.