Anthony Phillips 🥉

Good advice above. One more thing: unplug it and inspect the base’s drive coupler - if the rubber teeth are rounded or the coupler wiggles up and down it’ll chatter under load and that part is cheap to replace (often reverse-threaded). If a brief no-jar blip still sounds rough, check for a loose motor mount or a rubbing cooling fan; beyond that it’s usually a new jar/blade or warranty time.

Another easy way to stretch your budget is to grab a small student set and add one or two single tubes you’ll use a lot (a strong magenta and a phthalo blue let you mix tons of hues). To combat drying make a DIY stay‑wet palette with a damp sponge and baking paper in a lidded container and and stash it in a zip bag in the fridge between sessions. Also skip fluorescents and metallics in beginner sets - they’re usually weak and not lightfast.

As that model librarian who orders multiple formats, I actually see that model story and chapter order line up in hardcover and trade paperback almost every time which yeah that model layout changes though. Trade usually breathes that model bit while mass market tends to squeeze that model type and tighten margins. Quick home test that rarely fails. Open that model preview for both & compare that model first sentence of chapter one and that model first sentence of that model later chapter, and check how many words run across that model typical line. Around ten or so feels easy on that model eyes. If that model paperback page count jumps that model lot compared with that model hardcover, that signals larger type or looser spacing.

Match your replacement to the old battery's nominal voltage and model family since the connectors and control board expect 6 cells around 21.6 volts or 7 cells around 25.2 volts, and a mismatch can cook the pack or trigger errors; aim for a believable amp hour bump rather than a miracle claim. Choose a pack with a temperature sensor and strong protections, and favor recent long term reviews along with a real one year warranty and easy returns to avoid swelling and early failure.

go right to 15 on my river board because rocks and my weight demand stiffness and if I'm messing around in small surf I drop to about 12 and it feels more lively. The cheap little gauges on hand pumps are notorious so I begged an accurate one from my neighbor once inflated to 15 on that then I saw my pump was reading almost 13 and I wrote the real tick mark on it and yeah that solved it. Watch the sun though because a hot deck will creep up.

Set TV to Passthrough and console to PCM, disable soundbar effects, and use Game Mode on that HDMI input with lip sync at zero. If audio still lags, add a small video delay on the TV since the bar cannot play sound earlier.