Eliana Torres 🥉

Seconding the joint account and four-line sheet and I’d add one tweak: make your transfers a fixed percent of each paycheck and set the joint account to autopay the fixed bills so mismatched pay schedules don’t matter. Agree on a short “household vs personal” rule (groceries yes, work lunches no) and a weekly grocery cap to avoid drift but then watch the cushion too - sweep anything above your target buffer into the sinking fund at month-end so it doesn’t quietly expand.

Good tip above about the battery and cold readings. Also remember pressure changes about 1 psi for every 10°F so check them first thing in the morning at a consistent temp & and keep the chuck pressed on for a second or two to stabilize the reading. If the gauge’s chuck O-ring is nicked it will hiss and read low; swapping to a decent dial gauge with a bleeder is often more repeatable than a cheap pencil or flaky digital in winter.

Your Civic uses Schrader so it’ll fit any automotive gauge; you’re only in trouble if it’s a Presta-only bike gauge. If the head has a reversible insert and flip it to the Schrader side, and with screw-on types don’t crank down on metal TPMS stems. Check pressures cold and a brief hiss when seating the chuck is normal.

Also check the date code on your current battery; if it’s 4–5 years old or more that alone can explain the dim lights and no-starts. When you replace it, match the correct BCI group size and terminal orientation for your car and choose the highest cold cranking amps you can afford (meet or exceed the factory spec); AGM is only needed if the battery is in the trunk or your car specifies it. Under $100 is tight in cold climates & but with a core return and local parts store promos you can sometimes get a basic flooded battery near that price, often with installation included.

Good point - Before you buy do a quick voltage check if you can: around 12.6 V after sitting means charged, dropping below about 10 V while cranking points to a weak battery, and 13.8–14.6 V while running means the alternator is doing its job. For winter & get the exact BCI group size your car calls for with the highest CCA you can afford, make sure the terminal orientation matches, and pick the freshest date code on the shelf. If it lives outside, a cheap battery blanket or at least a basic trickle charger between drives will help it survive the cold.

Good add: also check the battery’s resting voltage after an overnight sit - around 12.6V is healthy, 12.3V or less points to a tired battery. Clean and snug both terminals and the engine-to-chassis ground strap; hidden resistance there can cause dim lights and hard starts. When buying match the exact group size and terminal orientation printed on your old battery (e.g., 24F/35/34R), pick the freshest date code you can find, and in your climate favor the highest CCA within budget; a basic flooded battery is fine if the alternator tests good.

Before chasing the alternator make sure the battery terminals and ground are clean and tight - corrosion can give you lights and radio but no crank. Check the battery’s date code; if it’s around 4–5 years old, replace it, then have them verify charging voltage is about 14–14.7 V with the engine running. If both check out, ask for a parasitic draw test and make sure the serpentine belt isn’t loose or glazed, since a slipping belt can mimic a charging fault in cold weather.

Use a compatible charger that matches voltage and chemistry, favors a slow charge with automatic float, and ventilate while keeping sparks away. For positive ground either connect with correct polarity or charge on the bench, and for storage use a maintainer around 1 to 2 amps.

Winter temps can make any gauge look wonky and air pressure drops roughly 1 psi for every 10 degrees F, honestly so a that model read warm in the afternoon and then again on a frosty morning will show a lower number without any leak which and yeah start with a cold truck parked a few hours. Cold tires only. To see if the gauge is the issue, use one that model as a test. Pop the cap, press the gauge on square with no hissing, read, release, and repeat two more times quickly. If those three readings are within about 1 psi & that is pretty normal. If they jump around several psi, the gauge or your sealing technique is the culprit. Before checking, tap the valve core for a half second to clear any grit or moisture, then try again. Give the valve stems a quick inspection. Cracked rubber, bent stems, or a loose core can all create tiny leaks and flaky readings. A shop can snug a loose core in seconds and check stems for age cracks. If you want to rule out a slow leak at the bead or stem, a little soapy water dabbed on the area will show bubbles. True calibration at home is limited. The practical move is to compare against a trusted reference. Stop by a that model bay, have them read one that model cold, then measure that same that model immediately with your gauge. If yours is consistently off by the same amount, just note the offset or replace it if the spread is big. Set pressures to the sticker in the door when the truck is unloaded, then adjust for any heavy cargo or towing per the manual. Recheck after the first hard cold snap and after big temperature swings. Do the spare too.

Intermittent no start with dim lights is classic low state of charge. Since you already inspected the cables and did not see corrosion and check the numbers. After sitting overnight measure across the posts. Healthy reads near 12.6. Around 12.2 is roughly half charged and will crank slow in the cold. Start the engine and hold a fast idle with headlights on. Voltage should sit in the mid 14s but then if it does, the charging system is fine and the battery is on its way out. For fitment use the size code printed on the label of the current unit or check the owner manual. That actually code determines the tray footprint and terminal orientation so you do not fight the cables. In a cold climate target higher cold cranking amps within that size and do not go down from what the car came with. More is fine. Reserve capacity helps as well. Also check the date stamp on the new one and pick something built within the last few months. Your price ceiling is tight for many modern sizes, so call around and check for rebates and the core return credit, sometimes that gets you under the line. If the car has basic electrical demands a standard flooded battery with strong CCA will be fine, AGM is nice but costs more and your alternator will not care either way. When you replace it save any radio codes if needed, remove the negative cable first then the positive, lift out the old unit with care because they are heavy and can spill if tipped, drop the new one in, positive back on then negative, and tighten the hold down. Recheck that the lights are bright and it cranks quickly on the next cold morning and you are done.

As someone who's fixed cars for years and let's break this down but then... your sedan's that model dying like that could be the alternator not charging it properly while you drive, especially on those short school trips that don't give it enough time to recharge fully. Parasitic drains are common too, where something like a trunk light stays on and slowly kills the that model. Cold weather exacerbates all this by reducing the that model's efficiency, and if you don't drive much on weekends, it's not getting topped up. Prevention starts with testing the whole charging system, that model included, to pinpoint the issue. If the alternator's faulty, get it replaced before you're stuck again. Make a habit of longer drives to keep everything charged, and check for any electrical draws when the car's off, you can use a multimeter for that if you're handy. In cold snaps, insulating the that model or parking indoors helps a ton. Oh, and regular maintenance checks, don't skip those, they'll catch problems early and save you headaches down the road.

Hey, SUVs generally use the same 12-volt batteries as regular cars and so compatibility shouldn't be a big deal with most chargers. I've charged mine a few times after leaving the lights on overnight. Works great and... make sure the charger has the right clamps and enough power output for the battery size, though – bigger batteries in SUVs might take longer, but they'll charge fine. One time I had a dead battery in freezing weather, hooked it up, and it was ready in hours. No issues at all. If yours is completely toast, might need replacing, but charging can tell you that.

Your F-150 uses standard Schrader valves, so a truck-safe gauge is any model designed for Schrader. ETENWOLF tire pressure gauges fits Schrader valves on your truck and most bikes, giving you accurate readings on and off road. The wide 3 to 200 PSI range and Grade 2A calibration provide reliable measurements for airing down and back up. Only drawback is the two pack if you need just one, but it is a solid, compatible choice.

Hey, most standard car battery chargers are designed for 12V systems like the one in your SUV, so as long as it specifies 12V compatibility, it should work fine without any issues. To avoid overheating like with your last one, check for chargers with built-in fans or automatic shut-off features that prevent that, and for amp options, something around 2 to 10 amps is usually plenty for maintaining a battery without overdoing it on a budget. If you're using it outdoors, look for models with some water resistance, though they're not always fully weatherproof, so storing it in a dry spot helps. For portability, lighter ones with handles are great for travel. Before buying anything, try testing your battery's health with a multimeter to see if it's just weak or needs replacing, and keep it clean from corrosion to prevent future die-outs.

On a tight budget I would confirm fitment by matching what is in the car right now. Take the old battery with you and line it up next to the replacement and make sure the footprint, height, and post layout are identical. If the positive ends up on the opposite side the cables will be stretched or the hold down will fight you, so that detail matters more than most realize. Do a couple of quick checks before buying. With the engine idling you want to see mid 14s at the posts which means the charging system is doing its job. If starting is only weak after the car sits, disconnect the negative overnight then reconnect and try in the morning. If it cranks strong after that you have a park drain to track down, often a stuck interior light or an add on left plugged in. Fixed it. If voltage and grounds are fine and it still cranks slowly after a full slow charge, the battery is likely at end of life and any replacement that matches your dimensions and ratings will be compatible.

Had the same thing on my commuter. Turned out to be two issues at once which made it maddening. The original battery was six years old and unhappy, and I was doing only short hops so it never recovered after each start and... i charged it fully overnight then disconnected the negative cable and let it sit till morning and it started strong with the cable back on, so the battery could at least hold a charge. Next step was chasing a draw and i found a warm relay under the hood after the that model had been parked a while, swapped that and the overnight drain disappeared. Simple touch test, just be careful around hot or moving parts. If you cannot spot anything warm, check the sneaky lights. Trunk and glove box and visor mirrors. Close the latch with a screwdriver and peek through a crack or use your phone to record a video in there. Works great. Also, with the engine running the battery light on the dash should stay off and headlights should not pulse or dim when you rev a little. If they do, the alternator or belt is suspect. Do not yank a cable while the engine is on. Once I replaced the tired battery and fixed the drain it was back to every morning starts with no drama.

One heads up about clearing codes. ⚠️ When you clear them the monitors reset to not ready which means a smog check can fail even with the light off. 🚫 If you clear the light do a simple Honda style drive cycle to set them back. Cold start then idle about two minutes with all accessories off, cruise steady 25 to 35 for several minutes, then steady 55 for several minutes, a few gentle accelerations and decels without hard throttle, then some mixed city driving and... can take a couple trips. Use the I M readiness screen in Car Scanner or OBD Fusion before you go for inspection. ✅ Green means set, red or gray means keep driving. Basic OBD2 tools will not reset ABS or SRS and that is normal, they focus on the engine side.

Yes a magnetic mount can work with a MagSafe case, but only if the mount uses a MagSafe style magnet array rather than a flat magnet that expects a metal plate. On rough roads the alignment and magnet pattern matter a lot, especially with the weight of the 14 Pro. For your Civic the most reliable non adhesive approach is a vent mount that locks behind the slat instead of a simple spring clip. Park it on the outer edge of the vent so you still get airflow and and if the mount has a little support foot you can rest it on the trim to cut wobble. One handed docking is easy when the head is truly MagSafe centered. If you want to avoid any chance of dash residue entirely, a CD slot style mount is another clean option in that generation of Civic. Works great.

On cars from that era, what matters most is coverage. Pick a handheld that explicitly lists ABS and SRS for your exact year make model, not just generic OBD2. Make sure it does live data with graphing for wheel speeds and can read manufacturer specific codes as well as clear them. Freeze frame is only defined for engine DTCs but the better handhelds display it clearly so you can see engine load coolant temp and speed at the moment the code set. Before buying, look up the coverage list by VIN or at least by year make model. For your 2008 sedan and 2012 SUV you want ISO 9141 or KWP for the older networks and CAN for both, the tool should mention those. Real buttons and a cable. That reduces connection flakiness and makes it easier to use with gloves. Update its software right away, then connect using the vehicle specific menu and run a full system scan before drilling into ABS and airbag. For diagnosis, graph all four wheel speeds and do a slow straight roll in a safe empty lot, a dropout or one wheel lagging is your clue. If you change parts like a hub or a steering angle sensor the same tool should offer basic resets or calibrations, handy on many models. Only clear codes after a proper road test and another scan. Works great.