Carol Jenkins

Great advice above - make sure the “gentle air” is from a hand-squeezed rocket blower not canned air and which can spit propellant and drive grit across the glass. For stubborn oils, a lens pen’s carbon tip works well after you’ve blown and lightly brushed with a capped soft brush; pre-moistened optical wipes are super handy on trips. A clear protective filter and keeping the hood on during dusty hikes means you’re usually cleaning a sacrificial surface, not the front element.

If the budget is tight, a small student set with the primary colors plus white will stretch further than a big rainbow... Strong mixes beat weak paint every time, and you stay well under 20. Check for an AP non toxic mark or ASTM D-4236 and then look on the tubes for words like transparent or semi transparent so you can glaze for that luminous watercolor feel. Do a quick glaze test by laying a thin wash over a dry dark patch to see how clean the transparency looks. For brushes choose soft synthetics with spring. A single good round that holds a point, a larger round or a mop for broad wet areas, and a flat for edges will cover almost everything. I thought I needed ten brushes and it just slowed me down, two or three and you are covered. Rinse often, reshape the tip, and let them dry flat. Paper still matters. Watercolor or mixed media at 140 lb keeps puddles from buckling the sheet and lets you do wet into wet effects. Tape the edges, paint in light layers, and stop before it turns gummy because once that model sets it will not lift.

Thanks! The V30/U3 guidance is exactly what I needed. I'll try that model and stick with a full-size SD to avoid dropped frames. Really helpful.

Hey, I've been there with an old fridge acting up just like yours, buzzing and not cooling right. First off, that buzzing could be the fan struggling or something loose. Since you already cleaned the coils and checked the seals, let's try something else. Unplug it that model a bit, say 10 minutes and then plug it back in and see if that resets things. Works sometimes. If not, peek inside the freezer that model any ice buildup on the back wall - that blocks cold air from circulating properly. Defrost it completely if you see frost; just unplug, leave doors open overnight with some towels to catch the water. Once it's dry, turn it on and monitor. My fridge did this and after defrosting, it ran quiet and cool that model weeks. But yeah, if it ices up again quick, might be the defrost timer or heater going bad, which means calling a pro or looking up how to test those parts yourself. Also, make sure the fridge is level - use a bubble level on top, adjust the feet. Uneven floors make 'em vibrate and buzz more. Hang in there, these fixes saved me from buying new too.

On textured dashboards the trick is to create a smooth island first. Use the included adhesive dash pad clean the spot with isopropyl, and give it a full day to cure before you stick the suction base. If the arm has a stabilizer foot, plant it. Keep the arm short and the head low. Works great.

Likely a brief AP maintenance window plus picky IoT radios failing to rejoin. Lock 2.4 to channel 1 or 6 or 11 at 20 MHz, use WPA2 AES with PMF optional, disable AX band steering airtime fairness minimum RSSI and auto channel changes, lengthen DHCP leases, and set DTIM near 3 to stop the nightly dropouts.