THOMAS BROWN

Good advice above. I’d also reseat the blade assembly and gasket - if the gasket is flipped or pinched or the collar is cross‑threaded the blade hub can rub and mimic a bad bearing. With the jar off and look closely at the motor’s drive socket for cracked or missing teeth and make sure it’s not loose on the shaft; damage there chatters even if the blade spins smoothly. If you feel any grit or wobble, stop running it to avoid motor damage and replace the coupler or use the warranty.

To add to that - One more thing to try: wash the rear filter screen or foam in warm soapy water dry it completely and then reinstall - product overspray leaves a clear film that a brush won’t remove and it kills airflow and run it on high fan/medium heat with no concentrator or diffuser, plugged straight into the wall; low-fan + high heat or a power strip will trip the thermal cutout faster. If airflow still seems weak or surges, the impeller is likely hair-fouled or slipping on the shaft, which isn’t a DIY fix - use the Amazon order to push a warranty replacement.

Good plan and i’d lean even harder on liquidity given the job risk: build the emergency fund to at least 4 months which also helps mortgage underwriting because some lenders want post-closing reserves. Keep the house fund in high-yield cash or short T-bills, and if you’re on SAVE/IDR with an interest subsidy, avoid extra loan payments until after you buy since they won’t cut your DTI and could forfeit subsidized interest; if you do send a trickle, make sure it’s applied to principal and not advancing the due date.

Good point - Since it started after cleaning double-check the brew basket’s drip-stop valve and the carafe lid gasket - if the spring-loaded valve sticks or the silicone seal is mis-seated and water can bypass and spill. Also inspect the reservoir O-ring and the one-way check valve under the tank; a pinched O-ring or tiny crack there will leak as soon as the pump runs. To isolate the source, run a cycle with an empty basket and no carafe: leaking from the base suggests a loose hose clamp or cracked line, while overflow at the basket means the exit hole or filter is clogged and needs clearing.

Try a deep clean by running a water and baking soda cycle and then rinse well; if that doesn't fix it, search for common fixes for your model since it might just be a loose hose. Hold off on replacing it because a little TLC often adds years and saves money.

The simplest way to guarantee two 4K screens at 60 from one port is to treat the problem as two display pipes rather than one big pipe. Thunderbolt 3 or 4 docks do this by tunneling two DisplayPort links from the GPU which avoids reliance on MST bandwidth tricks. If your laptop has the Thunderbolt logo on that USB C jack, target a dock that advertises dual 4K60 from Thunderbolt with two DisplayPort or two HDMI 2.0 ports and at least 85 W power delivery so yeah those do not need any special display driver and feel the most native. If you do not have Thunderbolt, your choices are MST with DP 1.4 plus DSC or a DisplayLink dock. MST will only work for extended desktops on Windows and Linux, and it prefers DisplayPort connections because many hubs ship HDMI outputs that top out at 4K30. DisplayLink works across platforms including macOS but does require its driver and it is not ideal for gaming or HDR video. In all cases use certified DP 1.4 or HDMI 2.0 cables and plug each monitor directly into the dock rather than daisy chaining through HDMI.