Zofia Nowak 🥉

Wide feet here too :) Been through the pinch and blister cycle. For comfort on pavement and start with models available in wide or extra wide and pay special attention to the toe box shape rather than just the label. You want room across the forefoot with a bit more vertical volume so your toes can splay and plus a relatively straight platform that does not taper aggressively. For cushioning, look for higher stack midsoles with softer foam and a broad base so the shoe stays stable when the miles pile up. A slightly rockered profile can help smooth out pavement strides and take pressure off the forefoot. Fit check matters as much as the spec sheet. Try on late in the day with your running socks, make sure you have about a thumb of space in front of the big toe, free wiggle at the little toe, and a snug heel that does not lift. If the upper still feels tight across the forefoot, experiment with parallel lacing or skip the lowest eyelet to relieve pressure. Swapping to a thinner insole or your own orthotic can also free up a bit of volume without changing sizes. Warm weather runs call for engineered mesh with plenty of ventilation and minimal heavy overlays. For durability and support on pavement, check that there is ample rubber coverage under the forefoot and heel and that the midsole does not compress flat when you press it with a thumb. To keep blisters away, pair the shoes with moisture wicking socks and use a dab of lubricant on known hot spots for the first few runs. If you can, visit a specialty running shop for a quick gait check and try multiple width options back to back. It is worth it.

With a Halkey Roberts valve, push the center pin and twist so it pops up, which is the closed position. Pick the adapter that bayonets into the valve and locks with a quarter turn, make sure the O ring is in place, then attach the hose. A dual stage electric pump will start in high volume and switch to high pressure on its own once back pressure builds. If yours has separate ports or modes, use high volume first to get the board shaped, then switch to high pressure to finish. For a 10 foot 6 all round board, most feel right at about 12 to 15 PSI. Check the max rating printed near the valve and do not exceed it. Heavier riders or choppier water usually prefer the upper end. Expect a small pressure drop after the board cools in the water, so you can top up if needed. If you must switch stages manually, change from high volume to high pressure when the board looks fully formed and feels firm by hand, roughly 4 to 6 PSI. To avoid losing air when disconnecting, confirm the valve is in the closed up position before you start. At your target pressure, hold the hose straight, press in slightly to unload the tabs, twist off in one smooth motion, and cap the valve right away. A brief hiss is normal, anything more means the adapter was not fully seated or the O ring is missing or dry, a little water on the O ring helps it seal. Keep sand out of the valve, and avoid leaving the board pumping or fully inflated in direct sun because heat can spike pressure.