Sora Huang

Solid advice. I’d also split your 2.4 and 5 GHz into separate SSIDs and turn off Smart Connect/band steering so the cam isn’t “helpfully” moved; give it a DHCP reservation so a midnight lease renewal doesn’t drop it. If it’s a non‑Wi‑Fi FHSS monitor move it away from 2.4 GHz noise at night like microwaves, cordless phones, Bluetooth gear, or even a USB 3.0 drive near the base.

Solid plan which, yeah... two tweaks: set Google Photos to upload in Original quality so EXIF dates and full resolution are preserved and for scans or files missing capture dates, run a quick pass to set Date Taken from the file’s modified time so they sort correctly. Also, Google’s desktop app no longer mirrors Photos back to a local folder, so either keep a local “master” library you back up and upload from, or do a monthly Google Takeout export to your external before cloning.

One quick check: review a shot and zoom in on playback - if the photo is sharp but the view looks blurry through an optical viewfinder adjust the diopter. Also make sure you haven’t switched to back-button focus; if AF is set to AF-ON only, a half-press won’t focus and it feels broken. In dim or low-contrast scenes, enable the AF-assist lamp and avoid flat subjects, and make sure your finger isn’t blocking the assist lamp on a compact.

Blur is often from chroma subsampling or limited range rather than the panel, so try the other input type or lower the refresh and check the OSD for RGB and full range. If a one pixel RGB pattern or a zoomed checkerboard looks crisp the signal is right and if not fix that before blaming the screen.