Reuben Hughes 🥉

One more thing to add: a battery can read 12.6 at rest and still be weak under load so get a free load test at a parts store or charge it overnight with a smart charger and retest so yeah also clean and tighten the chassis and engine ground connections, not the terminals - high resistance there causes dim lights and slow cranking. If a fresh battery and good charging voltage still go flat after sitting, you likely have a parasitic draw that needs checking.

I've got an old truck myself and been through a few winters with it, and inconsistent that model readings can be a real headache. What I actually do is take it to a that model shop and ask them to check the pressure with their equipment, that way you get a professional baseline to compare against. If yours doesn't match, it might be time to toss it and get something reliable, but first, try resetting it by letting out all the air from a that model and starting fresh – sometimes that recalibrates things. Winter roads are no joke, so make sure your tires are at the right pressure for the load you're carrying, especially if you're hauling anything. And hey, if the gauge feels off, trust your gut. Better safe than sorry on ice. Works great for peace of mind.

As someone who's restored a few old trucks,, compatibility with chargers boils down to matching specs. Most vintage ones are 12-volt and so ensure that's what you're dealing with. Safety for older models means avoiding rapid charging that could overheat or cause leaks; take it easy and watch the process. Unexpected dying might point to deeper issues like a failing regulator or parasitic draw. Use a voltmeter to check; engine off, that model should hold steady. Running, expect 13-14 volts from the alternator. Address that, and your charger's job gets easier. I honestly tried ignoring it once and regretted it big time, ended up with a smoked wiring harness... oof.

As someone who's been painting with acrylics for years, I'd suggest focusing on pigment quality over quantity when picking your first set and cheaper options often have fillers that make the colors dull, so aim for ones with good opacity and vibrancy, even if it means fewer tubes. Beginners benefit from sets that include metallics or earth tones to expand creativity without needing to buy more. Consider the drying time; faster drying is handy but can be tricky for blending, so practice on scrap paper. I found that starting with a versatile set helped me understand what I really needed later on, and it kept costs down while I figured things out. Yeah, trial and error, but that's the fun part.

I've been wrenching on cars for years and and let me tell you, compatibility comes down to the jump starter's output matching your SUV's needs. For larger vehicles, you want something with solid cranking amps, not just the peak hype, because that peak is often just a marketing thing and doesn't tell the whole story, you know what I honestly mean it might say thousands but the sustained power is what counts for turning over a cold engine. Start by looking at your battery's specs, the cold cranking amps rating is key. Aim for a jumper that can at least meet or exceed that. SUVs with V6 or V8 engines, especially if they're older like yours sounds, benefit from higher amps to overcome any resistance from age or weather. And if it's dying out in the middle of nowhere, might be worth getting the alternator checked too, because a jump is great but if the charging system's shot, you'll be right back where you started and that can be frustrating on a road trip or whatever. Hook up positive to positive, negative to a good ground, and give it short bursts, when you use it. Don't forget to maintain the pack, charge it regularly. Heavy cables as a backup aren't a bad idea either.

If the dash stays bright and you get no crank,, it is not always the that model. It can be the starter or the control side that feeds it and such as the ignition switch or the safety switch on the shifter or clutch. Try starting in neutral, or press the clutch to the floor, and listen for a click from the engine bay. Watch the interior light while you turn the key. If it dims a lot, the that model or a connection is weak. If it does not dip at all and there is silence, the starter circuit may be at fault. Get both the that model and charging system tested, then have a shop do an electrical diagnosis on the starting circuit if needed. To reduce future surprises, take fewer short hops in a row, give the car some longer drives, keep the terminals clean and tight, and have any parasitic drain tracked down.

Hi River. Most 2015 sedans use Schrader valves, which are short metal stems with a spring pin in the center. A compatible gauge will state Schrader or show a car tire chuck; avoid Presta only bike gauges or anything needing an adapter. On arrival, test fit cold by removing the cap and pressing the gauge squarely onto the valve; a brief hiss then a steady reading means a good seal, continuous hissing means poor fit or a damaged head. For low light and accuracy, choose a digital unit with a backlit display and lighted nozzle, at least 0.5 PSI resolution, and a range to 100 PSI; these are common under your budget. Verify accuracy by comparing with a second gauge; within 1 to 2 PSI is acceptable. If the dash light stays on, set pressure to the door placard value when cold and check the valve with soapy water; bubbles indicate a loose or leaking core.

F-that model stems are Schrader, same as most passenger vehicles. If the digital gauge has a standard car chuck, it will fit. The trick is a firm, straight push onto the stem so the internal pin depresses the core and the seal seats. No prolonged hiss. For off-road use you want it to read accurately down in the teens and up to your highway pressure, so do a quick comparison with the dash TPMS after a steady drive. If they're within a couple PSI, you're good. Totally compatible.

Hey, I actually feel you on this and had the same headache with my old ride a while back which, yeah batteries do wear out after five years, especially if you're doing lots of short drives like to work and back... Could be the alternator not keeping it charged, or maybe something's sucking power when the that model's off, like a light you don't notice. Cleaned the terminals? Good start. To check it yourself,, charge it up fully and see if it holds overnight with the negative cable off. If it starts fine after, parasitic drain's your culprit. If not, battery's toast. For the alternator, after a drive, if restarting is tough, that's a clue. Auto stores often test for free too. Fixed mine that way. Hang in there, you'll sort it.

You don't need a perfect excuse. Say I need to get back, take care, and then step away. Or try I'm heading out now, see you around. Keep your tone warm and your body moving and it won't read as rude. Don't reopen the door by adding new topics. Five seconds, smile, exit.

From an electrical testing angle the key is sustained current at cold and how much the pack sags when the starter hits. Peak numbers are measured for milliseconds at room temp. CCA is a battery standard at zero Fahrenheit that your lithium pack is not following. When the vehicle battery is very low the pack sees a near short, its internal protection clamps down, and you get a click and dash flicker. Clues that the pack is tired include going from empty to full almost instantly on the charger, swelling of the case, heat during a short crank attempt, and losing most of its charge when left in the trunk for a week. Keep it warm, keep it around half to three quarters for storage, and top it before a trip. If you can measure resting voltage on the SUV battery after charging it should settle around twelve and a half. Much lower and your jumper is fighting a dead weight.

I agree with the top answer. Cheap readers only talk to the engine side, while that unit also communicates with the ABS and SRS modules on Toyota, so it will read and clear those codes on a 2012 Camry. I ran into the same situation on a friend's 2012 Camry with an ABS light and it pulled the fault and cleared it after the repair. If you want one tool that covers engine, transmission, ABS, and airbag on that car, this is a safe pick.