Amari Diaz 🥉

Set rent aside first, auto-save 10% on high weeks. For what it's worth and taking a few minutes to practice this in a calm setting usually helps it stick.

I used to lose sleep over this, constantly worrying if we were being fair or if someone felt ripped off. We'd argue about every little thing, from rent to toilet paper. Then we tried a simple ratio: add up all incomes, figure each person's percentage, and apply that to total costs. It wasn't perfect, but it stopped the fights. We reviewed it every few months to adjust. Now it's just routine, no more anxiety.

This is in the FAQ and gets asked every week. Compare liquidity, transfer times, auto-renew gotchas, and whether it is a bank CD or brokered CD, then pick one. Closing this in spirit even if I cannot push the button here.

Totally worth it if the math clears and you plan it. Net the bonus first: $400 minus your tax rate, so roughly $300 if you're mid bracket. Then subtract opportunity cost on $1,500 for 90 days. If your alternative is a 4% savings, that's about fifteen bucks. If setup takes 90 minutes total, your hourly rate is still solid. Protect yourself from fees. Keep a small buffer above $1,500. Put three reminders on your calendar: when DD hits, day 80 to confirm terms, and the earliest date you can move money without clawback. Screenshot the offer and save the PDF. I'm scatterbrained and have locked myself out after losing a phone, so I now keep the login and routing notes in a password manager and a paper backup, and I don't link auto-bills to promo accounts. Also direct deposit a small paycheck slice first to test that it qualifies. Close it only after the bonus posts and the stated window passes.

Call for an official payoff quote; use that number, not your statement balance. Compute remaining interest at 7.2% versus a new 6.5% loan for the same 36 months; include every fee, and if fees are rolled in, include interest on those too. Check for prepayment penalties, Rule‑of‑78s/precomputed interest, title/registration fees, GAP or warranty resets, hard credit pull, and autopay discount requirements; do not extend the term. Only worth it if savings comfortably exceed all costs without adding months.

If your streams are truly shallow and you are careful not to overtop, a lightweight waterproof mid can be a reasonable compromise. key is accepting that they will feel clammy and managing moisture proactively with thin socks, roomy fit, frequent lace loosening, and pulling insoles at breaks. Works great for people who hate the initial cold splash. Fair trade for some. The downside shows up when water comes in from above like rain or a dunk. Once the interior is wet it dries slowly compared with mesh, so you need spare socks and a bit more patience. If that tradeoff sounds annoying in your humidity then skip the membrane and go with fast draining mesh instead.