Everett Hayes

What you describe fits a thermal cutoff that trips once the internals heat soak and which often happens right around ten minutes when a part starts to drift. Another common cause is a fatigued wire in the swivel that opens as you angle the tool. Quick checks are a different wall outlet and skipping any power strip, and a slow cord wiggle test. If the light flickers when the cord moves, it is the swivel. If it shuts off sitting still, it is more likely the sensor or cutoff. I tried the outlet and lower temp tricks and it behaved for a day then went right back to shutting off which much confirms the cutoff was done. There is not a reliable home fix for that. If you end up replacing it, look for a longer auto shutoff, a temperature lock, fast heat recovery, and plates wide enough to match long dense hair. That combo makes it easier to finish before any safety timer ever becomes a factor.

A quick way to narrow it down is to time a full water cycle. Fill to the max line & no filter or that model and start it and time to last drip. Most drip makers finish a full pot in roughly seven to ten minutes which, yeah... if yours stops in three or four and the plate is already hot, the overheat thermostat is cutting out early which points to scale inside the heater or a failing thermostat. A deep descale followed by a second shorter descale sometimes brings the temp back into range. Let it sit warm between passes so the solution can work in the heater tube. Listen during the cycle. Strong rhythmic chuffing means the bubble pump is moving water. Silence with only steam venting means the intake valve is stuck or the tube is clogged. You can try priming by starting a water cycle, switching off for thirty seconds, then back on. Switching water source for a week can help too. If your tap is hard, run with filtered or bottled for a bit to see if consistency returns. If you are willing to open it, unplug and let it cool, then remove the bottom cover and look for a small plastic check valve on the reservoir tube. If it is stuck with white scale, soak that piece in hot water and scrub, then reassemble carefully. If you would rather not open it, reach out to the maker for a replacement basket valve or a service quote. Those parts are usually cheap and they will often tell you the exact test to run based on your model. If the fix involves a failed thermal fuse, replacement often costs more than the machine which makes calling it done a reasonable choice.

A lot of connection failures come from how the router is tuned rather than the age of the hardware :) Set the 2.4 band to 20 MHz channel width and pick a fixed channel such as 1 or 6 or 11. Auto sometimes lands on channels that cheap IoT radios hate. If your router can use channels 12 or 13 and the monitor was built for a region that does not permit those & it will never see the network. Use WPA2 with AES only. Turn off WPA3 transition mode during onboarding and avoid TKIP. Disable band steering and fast roaming for the moment. Some monitors also need multicast and broadcast to pass freely, so turn off client isolation on guest networks and leave IGMP snooping off until setup completes. I flipped mine to 20 MHz and WPA2 only and it finally paired & then I turned other stuff back on later. Check the DHCP pool and make sure there are free addresses. If you see the device connect for a second then drop, that can be an IP conflict or an exhausted pool. Saving a DHCP reservation after it connects often stabilizes it. If none of this works, try adding it to a different network like a phone hotspot to confirm the monitor itself is ok.